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Total treatment

In the total amount of body care products sold in 2005 the major part – 43.8% - was reported by hand care. People are still not used to everyday body pampering.

Specialized body products took 41.9%, including 10% share of universal skin care. In this segmentation foot care reported the smallest 14.3% share (ACNielsen). The tendency in consumption of specialized body care and foot sold through retail stores shows a slight decrease both in volume and value terms. Unlike these subsegments, hand care enjoys a rise from 40% to 43.8% of total body care sales value and from 46.4% to 49.3% of sales volume in 2005 as compared to 2004. In the same period specialized body products reported a decline from 33.2% to 31.9% of total body care sales value and from 27.6% to 27.0% of sales volume. Consumption of universal skin care, positioned to be used for treating body, hands and feet, fall from 12.3% to 10% in value terms and from 10.8% to 8.6% in terms of items.

In the hand care segment local manufacturers are leading. In 2005 they effected 81% of total hand care sales volume and 68.1% of sales value. Kalina, Nevskaya Kosmetika and Svoboda are leading with mutual share equal to 57.2% of sales volume and 47.5% of sales value. The best sellers are the following brands: Barkhatnye ruchki, Velur, Kare, Silikonovyi, Chistaya linia (produced by Kalina), Limonno-glitserinovyi and Romashkovo-glitserinovyi (made by Nevskaya Kosmetika), Zodiak, Nezhnyi velur (Svoboda). In 2005 these trademarks reported 45.5% of hand care sales volume and 32.4% of sales value (ACNielsen). In the past several years open markets have been tremendously loosing in popularity. At present people prefer to buy hand care in supermarkets (59.8% of total hand care sales volume and 35.1% sales value in Moscow in 2005). Specialized cosmetics stores, department stores and pharmacies are less popular (28.1% of sales volume and 48.8% of sales value). As the figures clearly show, upper massmarket and premium products are sold predominantly in cosmetics stores, department stores and pharmacies, while supermarkets distribute mainly the popular massmarket brands produced by local manufacturers.

In massmarket body care producers distributing through retail stores compete with direct sellers. The most intensive competition is in the Russian regions, though the market seems to give enough space for every company. Though Russian manufacturers lead the market, direct sellers also increase sales. In 2005 Oriflame started a 30 mln investment construction of a plant that will produce body care among other skin care cosmetics.

Remarkably, products with anti age effect seem to form the mainstream of future hand care and body care development in Russia. Anti age body care is expected to enjoy good proliferation in Central, Southern, Privolzhski and Uralski regions. These regions are especially perspective for body care distributed through pharmacies, as major national pharmacy chains actively develop there. Sales in other Russian regions will be probably impeded by insufficient solvency of local population in the next two years.

Over half of Russian women (53%) buy cosmetics in pharmacies. In the total amount of cosmetics sold in drugstores, body care provides 19% (Pharmexpert). International pharmacy giants use body care market to strengthen their positions in Russia. Thus RoC, which entered the country a year ago and promised to outpace Vichy, the pharmacy leader in Russia, started from facial care. The company’s development was supported by intensive advertisement, including TV clips, and products verification. Recently RoC proliferated to body care by launching Body Modeling, an anti-cellulites line. The strategy seems to be a success, as anti-cellulites products are the most popular body care. However, Vichy, one of the oldest Russian market players, continues to thrive on high consumer loyalty. Moreover Vichy still wins the price war. Body Modeling by RoC costs about 1000 rubles, while Vichy offers anti-cellulites Liposyne at 800 rubles (retail prices) and provides various discounts.

Another tendency is a close cooperation of body care manufacturers with food additives producers. Concurrently to applying body creams, people are offered to take nutritional additives to provide “beauty from inside”. Laboratory Nizar enlarged deKAROLine skin care brand with two vitamin beverages Balance and Stress Resistance. Firm Sasha, a contract manufacturer of cosmetics products, equipped its plant with food additives manufacturing line.

Three years ago people showed a tendency to make a “spa salon” at home. On this wave they bought products positioned in spa segment (body creams, shower gels, scrubs). However bath care manufacturers managed to increase significantly their offer both in products variety and price range and draw consumers attention from body care segment. At the same time retailed body care suffered from competition with products distributed through beauty salons. Professional cosmetics confidently conquers the market and goes even to retail stores. For example, [comfort zone], a premium Italian brand of professional face and skin care cosmetics, is presented in Ile de Beaute store chain, where specific spa-rooms are equipped for realization of professional procedures for the face and body. Products of this brand appeared for the first time in the Russian market five years ago and was distributed exclusively through beauty parlors.

Russian consumers take high price as a proof of product quality. Remarkably, people spending substantial sums for facial cream, hand care and foot care, tend to save on specialized body care cosmetics. Foreign manufacturers of premium body care fuel consumer interest by issuing new products positioned as highly effective and fast-acting. Assortment is enlarged with multi-component treatment programs, containing an array of highly tailored products. The programs are made on the analogy of salon procedures.


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